Neighbours

Our closest neighbour

We moved to the outskirts of Khartoum a few weeks ago, and since then I have been discovering the area bit by bit. It is interesting to see that no house in this neighbourhood is the same; the colours, shapes and sizes of the various houses are just really different. And the financial status of the house owners clearly comes forward, both inside and outside. Alongside the sandy road close to our office, stands a small tent made of plastic bags and pieces of wood. It is hard to believe that this actually serves as a home for a family with three children. Their modest house (which is by far water- or dust proof, I'm afraid) is oddly situated in the back garden of a huge house, which could easily be called a 'palace' compared to this small neighbouring tent home. I guess, the only thing they have in common is that fact that they are each other's neighbours. It does  show that the individual differences here in Khartoum can be really extreme. In that sense, our neighbourhood might be a good reflection of the Sudanese society in general.

Coffee chats

While waiting outside one of the office buildings in town, Mohamed (one of he drivers) and I sat down for a nice glass of traditional coffee. We chose two small colourful seats next to the coffee lady, who instantly burned some nice smelling incense for us to chase away the mosquito's. While we sat there in the cool shade of the tree, a young Sudanese man walked up to me and asked: "Do you know Daniel?". I told him that I didn't know anyone named Daniel here in Sudan. "Oh, I thought you might know him because he is also a khawaga", he continued. I said I was very sorry but that I really don't know him. "He is American and he is teaching English here in Sudan! I have been to America too, but now I am studying here". I asked the friendly young man where and what he was studying. While he smoothly ordered some coffee for himself he answered: "I study English". He pointed at the house on the other side of the street. "Whenever I look outside my window and see a foreigner on the street, I come outside to practice English and drink some nice coffee". It surely sounds like an effective and tasteful way of learning a new language!

Pens and swords

"Ahh, you are going to Kassala?", asked one of the drivers when I told him I might be travelling to the eastern side of Sudan  next week. 'In Kassala the men dress differently!", he said while his hands showed how the men there tend to fold their head scarf. "And, he added while smiled mysteriously, "the men there wear swords!". I must have looked amazed, because he started laughing loudly. But he told me not to worry. "The men don't use these swords, but they just like to carry it around", he said. I can imagine that these men look quite impressive with their accessories, but the thought of men carrying a fighting tool around for fun, is not something that eases my mind instantly. Fortunately, the driver assured me straight away: "To them it is something like carrying a pen in their chest pocket and that's also very normal, so no problem".

Sudanese globalism

Sudan is one of Africa's biggest countries and with a population of approximately 26.000.000 people it could be called a well represented nation. I have realized though that a relatively high number of Sudanese people are actually not living in Sudan any more, but elsewhere in the world. A few days ago, we were invited for lunch by our friend's family, and their family story confirmed this global phenomenon. "My brother lives in the The Netherlands", the man of the house started. We answered that it was such a coincidence, since we are also from The Netherlands. "And my other brother lives in England", he added. Before we could even react to that, he continued with his enumeration: "And I have one brother in the United States, and another one in Germany. And me and my other brother have lived in France". After he had explained that his younger brother was married to a Chinese woman, and that his children were attending the international French School in Khartoum, we almost lost track of all the international family influences. Talking about Sudanese globalism!

Three times asking

Discovering the 'unwritten rules' of the Sudanese society can be very interesting, but confusing at the same time. The other day I asked one of the substitute office drivers if I could 'book' him for the evening. Most of these drivers have their own 'amjad' (a local taxi) and if I need transport, I always try to call one of them. The income of an amjad driver is generally not very high, so I am happy to support them a little bit by booking their taxi for my trips to the city centre. At least, that's always my intention! But as soon as I reach my destination, the drivers don't want to expect my money. "You are my friend and Frank is also my friend. No money asking from friends!" is a general reaction when I want to hand over their deserved money. They would look the other way and put their hand on the money as to say that they really don't want it. This is sometimes confusing, since we arranged a clear price in advance. Fortunately, a friend of mine explained the magic rule of 'three times asking'. It is Sudanese politeness to refuse money twice. Only after the third time it is considered polite to accept something. True Sudanese politeness and modesty in all its glory, I say! I will definitely try it out next time: One time, two times, three times,..there you go!