Discovering the 'unwritten rules' of the Sudanese society can be very interesting, but confusing at the same time. The other day I asked one of the substitute office drivers if I could 'book' him for the evening. Most of these drivers have their own 'amjad' (a local taxi) and if I need transport, I always try to call one of them. The income of an amjad driver is generally not very high, so I am happy to support them a little bit by booking their taxi for my trips to the city centre. At least, that's always my intention! But as soon as I reach my destination, the drivers don't want to expect my money. "
You are my friend and Frank is also my friend. No money asking from friends!" is a general reaction when I want to hand over their deserved money. They would look the other way and put their hand on the money as to say that they really don't want it. This is sometimes confusing, since we arranged a clear price in advance. Fortunately, a friend of mine explained the magic rule of
'three times asking'. It is Sudanese politeness to refuse money twice. Only after the third time it is considered polite to accept something. True Sudanese politeness and modesty in all its glory, I say! I will definitely try it out next time:
One time, two times, three times,..there you go!
