Dance, dance, dance!

Yesterday, the very first 'Traditional Dance Festival for children'  took place in Kosti. Children from eleven surrounding communities had the chance to proudly present their traditional tribal songs and dances. And they did! I found it amazing to see that these different communities all had very different moves, clothes, accessories, hair styles and songs. This variety find its cause in the fact that many people from different parts of the country had to flee from war to find a safer place to live. Therefore, many of the people living in this region, are originally from other parts of the country. This great diversity clearly came together in the very special event last night. The audience counted over 1500 people, who had all been very eager to be part of this first time happening in Kosti. Frank and his team had been busy with the organization for many weeks, and it was obvious that it had definitely been worth it. After the members of the jury had announced the winner of the night, there was only one thing left to do for everyone: dance, dance, dance!

                                               

Sweet box

Hand-made box (with sweets!)

Visiting someone's home here in Sudan literally always comes with a sweet surprise. Before you even have the chance to sit down, a 'special box' with popcorn, peanuts,dates and sweets will be offered to you. This offer is mostly accompanied with a warm smile of the woman or girl who's holding the box right in front of you. Altogether it makes it an offer you can't refuse. Especially when you know that the box is hand-made or designed especially for the occasion. So, I somehow always end up chewing another dry date or extremely sugary candy whether I want it or not.   Last week, we were invited to join in with the celebrations in one of the nearby communities. I couldn't go, but when Frank came back home after a few hours he proudly handed over a present from the community to me: an original hand-made sweet box. Although, the design doesn't really match the rest of our interior, I have given it a prominent place on our side table, as Sudanese customs require. And it has had the intended effect: the staff and friends who have visited us over the past few days were all extremely delighted to see us sustaining their Sudanese tradition! And,..they simply couldn't resist these specially presented sweets! "Fancy a sweet?"

Winter

The river Nile in winter time

It's winter in Sudan. Compared to the current cold weather conditions in most parts of Europe, the Sudanese weathers are still quite hot. The temperature during the day is approximately 35°C, while the night temperature here is around 23°C . The impact of this winter period in Sudan is significant though. I spoke to Mohamed, one of Frank's colleagues, yesterday and he sighed that he was worried about his four-year-old son. He explained that he had been to hospital with him, because he had been coughing and sneezing a lot. The doctor had prescribed some medicines and a clear advice: "Your son must wear a coat when he is playing outside!". This sounded like a good advice, but after having bought a small coat, it seemed to be extremely difficult to make the little boy wear it. Mohamed looked at me and explained that he actually understood his son resistance: "How can a child play freely when he has to wear a coat? It is too heavy and uncomfortable to wear!" I started smiling and I told him that most children in Holland have to wear a coat throughout the year, sometimes even with two or three layers of clothes underneath it. He frowned his eyebrows and said he felt sorry for these children.. After a short pause he eventually saw one positive side of it: "If the child falls, then at least he won't feel it!"

Roles and rules

A portrait of a Sudanese woman

Last weekend, the wife of one of the guards dropped by to say hello. It was an unexpected visit, but nevertheless a welcoming one. Although she doesn't speak English and my Arabic language skills are not sufficient enough for an in-depth conversation, we somehow manage to understand each other. Since the first time I saw her, I have realized that she is actually one of the many Sudanese women with a lot of potential. Because of many external reasons, she never seem to have had the chance though to fulfil her ambitions. The conversations I have had with her husband have been interesting, and it has surely given me an insight in the roles and rules in their household. When I explained him, while trying not to sound too moralistic, that women have the same rights as men, he shook his head: "Women should be in the house with the children and only do cooking, sleeping and not talk too much". I am sure his wife could understand what he was saying to me, despite the fact that she doesn't speak English. Without waiting for my reaction he continued: "I will give you some money so you can buy me another wife in Holland!" By the way he started laughing I knew, or at least I hoped, that this was no serious proposition. I think this man would have a very hard time with a Dutch emancipated woman in his house. But I can imagine his wife wouldn't mind some extra support..

Let the band play!

In a place like Kosti it is important that you somehow organize entertainment yourself, since there are no theatres, cinemas, or other venues to spend your free time and relax. Fortunately, weddings are being celebrated here every other day, so in a way there is always a place to go to when you feel like having a good time outside of the house.  Unlike most weddings in Holland, there is no guest list, table setting or formal day schedule for the weddings here. Whether you know the bride and groom or not, everyone here is always welcome to share a little dance and or to chat with the other guests. Most of the weddings take place in a large tent in the middle of the sandy road, which by itself is already a welcoming gesture I think. But the special music band definitely always plays the biggest role in creating a positive, festive mood for everyone! Good musicians in Kosti are scarce though, so the chance is high that you will find the same band providing musical entertainment for 7 weddings in one week. Last week we went to a wedding and I have to say that I was really impressed by the band and the unexpected instruments they were playing (-from saxophone to bongo drums-). On our way back home I told Frank about my positive impression of this band and that I would like to hear them again one day. I didn’t have to wait too long, because the next day I recognized the singer’s voice and the high pinched saxophone through our kitchen window.  Apparently they were playing at another wedding close-by. And two days later, I heard them again while I was outside in the garden! Now, one week later I have heard them so often that I can join in with some of the songs and I have started to recognize the saxophone solos. I think I might go for another wedding soon, if it was just for enjoying more of these musical sounds. Let the band play!