Perceptions

I always find it interesting to discover the different perceptions of people on the same topic or theme. 'Life in Khartoum' is one of the topics that tends to produce extremely diverse views and perceptions from people who have lived here a while. Yesterday I visited the gym and spoke to some women who all had different ideas about the Sudanese capital: "Khartoum is sooo depressing!", said one. While another one commented: "It is such a safe city with a nice atmosphere. I don't want to live anywhere else!". One of the women argued the opposite and said she has never felt so unsafe in her life. Others said that their week is too short to fill it with all the activities they want to and can do in Khartoum. "Really?", others commented surprisingly, "I am so bored of sitting at home all the time, because I can't find any nice activities here!" I guess it shows that perceptions on Khartoum are simply as variable as the weather. At least, as the Dutch weather, because the weather here in Khartoum is always hot. Although....some people have a different opinion on that...

Wish come true

sunset in Khartoum

Last weekend I was invited by Frank's colleagues to attend one of the women's evenings as preparation for her niece's wedding. It was a nice relaxing evening with lovely Sudanese food and, naturally when women get together, lots and lots of chatting and gossiping. At some point, Frank's colleague and I were talking about people that used to work in the old office. My friend said that she hadn't seen one of the women for a long time. This particular young woman used to be part of the team of guards, which is quite an unusual profession for women. We kept talking about her and we wondered where she had been placed after the old office was closed. We could have never thought that this very morning the same woman we had talked about, suddenly walked into the new office! "I just felt like dropping by", she said, "and I asked some people the directions to your new place. So, here I am!". You can imagine the face of my friend, when she saw her walking in. "That's a coincidence!" she said, "I was thinking about you a few days ago and now you just walk in after all these months!" After she had greeted her she turned to me and said "In my culture we believe that God sometimes gives you what you want, if you just think about it." I answered that I found it quite a nice and soothing idea. But while a big frown appeared on her forehead, her voice turned sceptically: "I wish I had thought of a lot of money or a new house, instead of this thinking about this woman. Then maybe I would have got that instead!"

Digestion

I was asked an interesting question the other day: "What would you still like to do before you go back to The Netherlands?". Among some places I would still like to visit, I told him that I would like to try some fresh Sudanese camel milk. I have never tasted it and I am quite curious about the taste. He looked at me and started giggling mysteriously. At first I thought he was laughing because of my 'wish', but he said that he had some funny associations when talking about camel milk. "You know, one day some members of our Sudanese government went to an important meeting in one of the neighbouring countries. They were offered camel milk as a welcoming gesture, but instead of drinking a few sips, they drank too much. They didn't realize that camel milk is really good for your digestion, but you should never drink too much. Hahaha, the next day none of the members showed up for the meeting. They had something else to do in the bathroom!". While he was telling me the story, I was really amused by his giggles and outbursts of laughter. "So, take it easy with the camel milk!", he advised me educationally, "but do try it, because it is very nice!". I will definitely keep my eyes open for some camels today. And I will make sure I plan a day off afterwards, just to be on the safe side ;)

Cure or prevention?

"Put your rubbish in the bin!", is something I can still hear my parents and teachers telling me. Therefore, it wouldn't even cross my mind to throw plastic or other kinds of rubbish on the floor. Through my travels in different countries of the world I have noticed that this 'motto' doesn't have the same strength or effect everywhere. Sudan, unfortunately, is one of them. Yesterday I went to the Jebel Aulia Dam, a lovely place where lots of Khartoum residents tend to spend their free weekends. It struck me straight away that the majority of the trees were decorated with differently coloured plastic bags. I first hoped it would be some kind of art-project, but I had to conclude that the whole natural area was covered with plastic. It was difficult for me to hide my feeling of disbelief and amazement. My fellow-passengers agreed that the place would even look so much nicer if the great amounts of plastic bags wouldn't be there. I couldn't agree more, since I really liked the setting of the recreational grounds."The problem is", the driver said while he thoughtlessly threw his empty bottle out of his car window,"that they don't hire cleaners to clean this place every evening". I guess, he apparently believes more in the concept of 'cure', than of  'prevention'.

One billion rising

Yesterday, the students of the Ahfad University for Women took part in the global campaign 'One billion rising' to raise awareness on violence against women all over the world. The amazing and very striking focus of the event was a particular dance, that was being danced by women all over the world. Besides the students from the University, the Dutch community in Khartoum has also initiated special 'One billion rising' dance workshops, which will be conducted tonight at the Khartoum International Community School in Khartoum. Among all different global examples of shocking violence against women, there are unfortunately also still numerous stories from the women here in Sudan. So, enough reason to strike, dance and rise!

Floating on the Nile

"You are all invited to a boat trip on the Nile!" a colleague from the Ahfad University announced a few days ago. That was indeed an offer we couldn't refuse, so before we knew it we were standing on the shores of the Nile at the Blue Nile Sailing Club in Khartoum. There was a spacious 'party boat' waiting eagerly for us to come on board. When all of us, including the BBQ-set and fresh meet had found a comfortable place to sit on the deck, we headed off for a nice tour on Sudan's biggest river. It was an interesting idea to know that we were actually floating on a couple of empty barrels that had been attached underneath the boat. Simple, but inventive! Fortunately, it turned out be an extremely relaxing, steady float trip with even some musical entertainment by a friendly local musician. The sunset had truly never looked as beautiful!

Big hair

In many western societies, a woman's hairstyle or hair type is often seen as part of her identity.  People tend to describe each other according to their hair, for example: "That blond girl over there", or "the lady with long curly hair". Here in Sudan, there is a different perception on women's hair. Most of the female Sudanese wear a headscarf that clearly covers most of the coup. They are not supposed to show their hair to other men, besides their own husband and close family members. The beautiful coloured scarves always make me really curious about the hair styles underneath. And I can tell you, it sometimes is a big surprise! Talking about 'hair' is often a topic among my Sudanese female friends. When I first met them, they liked to feel my hair and ask me what products I use to keep it soft. "I wash it daily with normal shampoo and then I just let it dry in about 30 minutes", I told them. After a short pause they looked at each other, laughed loudly and said that they couldn't imagine that. After I'd asked them why they couldn't, they one by one lifted up their scarves and revealed their hairstyle. I was speechless! The majority of them had very long, very thick beautiful hair which had been tied at the back to keep it in shape. "You should see me in the morning; you would not recognise me!", one said, while putting her hands next to her head to show who wide her hair is when she wakes up. The others nodded as they recognised their own hair experiences."Actually, I am sometimes really happy that I can wear a scarf", one of them concluded. "When I have a bad hair day, nobody will know!"